Watches – Who or What is the Tool

Watches are tools.  This is a refrain constantly heard from fanboys on watch forums who increasingly resemble the very description they apply to their timepieces.  This being the 21^st Century, a world chalk full of smart phones, cars with push-button mobile concierge services and miniature robots that clean your carpets while you’re at work, if watches are tools they are of the antique variety, even the monstrosity of a dive watch pictured above.

‘But wait’, I can hear the man who carefully posts hairy-armed wrist shots of his new NOMOS say, ‘up until the 1970’s, the ONLY way to accurately and efficiently tell time while scaling Everest, diving the wreck of the Edmond Fitzgerald, flying across the Atlantic, organizing a commando raid or meeting a friend at the corner of 42^nd and Lex was with a MECHANICAL watch!’  While we do not, out of nostalgia, continue to use rotary dial phones, research via hard-copy encyclopaedia or send telegraphs, we have a tremendous degree of nostalgia for wristwatches.

I confess that, to a degree, this is a feeling that I share.  The idea of a collection of microscopic levers and gears consistently keeping track of time to within a matter of seconds of accuracy a day, while being jostled, bumped and subjected to all of our daily movements, is mind-boggling.  I wear mechanical wristwatches every day – but I’m entirely conscious of the fact that I’m wearing an inefficient relic simply because I like it.

We now have devices that are better suited to most of the uses we previously ascribed to our wristwatches.  Dive computers are far more accurate and safe than dive watches (not to mention the distraction of diving with $10,000 on your wrist).  Scientists have far more accurate means of time-telling than mechanical wristwatches, meaning that anti-magnetic watches are no longer necessary.  It’s even harder to imagine a doctor taking your pulse with a pulsometer on his watch dial (unless he plays very fast-and-loose indeed with his medical license).

In other words, it’s largely misguided to consider watches to be tools in the 21^st Century.  Using a wristwatch as a tool is like playing a round of golf with hickory shafted clubs – a quirky, fun in its novelty, ‘experience’.  I think we can all agree that it would be lunacy for a professional to utilize these very same clubs for a serious match.  Yet this is the very fantasy propagated by so many self-appointed horological arbiters.

In my experience there are two complications that remain useful and practical in modern society: the GMT and chronograph functions.  Both of these functions instantly communicate information to you at a glance; even faster than switching between apps on your iPhone.   For the uninitiated, a “GMT” watch is one that provides the time in two different time zones at the same time.  It was a complication introduced by Rolex in 1954, in association with Pan Am Airlines.  Pan Am wanted a way for their pilots to be able to keep track of specific timezones wherever they went and Rolex obliged by producing the GMT-Master (an original, bakelite-bezeled model is pictured below).  Since then, nearly every mainstream commercial brand has produced a GMT watch of one sort or another (the majority of these aren’t “true” GMT watches, as they’ve merely added a second hand that goes half as quickly around the bezel as a normal hour hand, thereby providing 24-hour time, with the need to move the bezel in order to set the “second” time zone; a true GMT has two completely independent hour hands).

A chronograph, on the other hand, offers stopwatch functionality; it allows the wearer to continue to keep track of the time of day whilst also timing a specific event.  Particularly popular in the 1960’s and 70’s with car racers, they allowed laps and pit stops to be timed on the fly.  Best known of these include the Rolex Daytona, Zenith El Primero (the first mass-produced chrono movement), Longines 13ZN, Heuer Autavia and the vaunted Omega Speedmaster, at one time, the only mechanical watch rated for space flight by NASA (pictured below).

It is unlikely that you will require your chronograph to time anything remotely as important as an engine burn on Apollo 13 prior to re-entry (as all instrumentation was dead, the crew’s Speedmasters were used).  Frankly, the most common use I have for mine is timing steaks on the barbecue – but, I enjoy it nonetheless and it lets me leave my phone on a table and relax.

I have a stronger bond with my GMT as I have been travelling in Europe continuously for nearly the last three months.  Primarily for work, but partly for pleasure, a glance at my wrist always told me what time it was in Toronto, all the while telling me the local time in London, Florence or Istanbul.  Simple, yet incredibly effective and genuinely useful for a traveller when moving across timezones where the math isn’t quite as simple or memorable as PST vs. EST.  Furthermore, it’s almost a wearable passport, the only thing that has been with me everywhere I’ve gone.

So, while it may be tempting to go for that watch depth rated to 3,000 feet for your scuba fantasies, the reality is that you’ll never use it, other than for bragging rights.  If you have one watch you wear almost every day, while an 80 hour power reserve is an impressive achievement, it’s one you won’t really need.  Even a simple, uncomplicated watch is one that is largely superfluous in a world where every phone, car dashboard and computer screen has a prominent time display on it.  Watches aren’t tools anymore – they’re occasions.  That is, except when you want to know when you should flip the steaks or what time it is at home in Big Sky, Montana while you’re in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul – in those cases, with the right watch, there is no more efficient means than a glance at your wrist.

This Week’s Object of Lust: Breitling Top Time

My love of watches is apparent from even a cursory read of this blog.  I’m always looking to add to my roster of timepieces, especially where I feel I have a gap.  My current obession is a series of vintage watches from legendary Swiss watchmaker Breitling.  For me, the mid-to-late ’60’s examples from the relatively short-lived ‘Top Time’ line of watches check all my personal watch aesthetic boxes: simple and elegant dial design (unlike the majority of modern Breitlings, whose dials I often find too busy); chronograph registers (earlier Top Times sport two chronograph registers, while later watches have three); a modern size (the ‘Jumbo’ size checks in at 39mm, which stands up well to modern watches and is only a single milimetre smaller than a Rolex Submariner); and finally, price.  Many vintage Breitlings will set you back closer to $5,000 than $1,000.  The Top Time hasn’t quite garnered the same amount of attention as the Navitimer or Chronomat lines (likely because these lines continue to exist to this day, whereas the Top Time died an untimely death) and I’ve seen examples sell for anywhere between $500 and $3500.  The cheaper Top Times tend to have the ‘cushion’ style case (as pictured below, in middle), are older models (from the late ’50’s and early ’60’s, in the smaller 35mm size and made of stainless steel rather than white or yellow gold.  The most expensive typically hail from the ’70’s, such as those on the far left and far right below, often sporting three chronograph registers.

For me, a 39mm, two-register, mid-60’s model with a “panda” dial (black with white chronograph registers) exactly like the one pictured above, keeps me up at night (usually trolling the classifieds section of watch sites trying to find one).  With the wide variety of colours, case shapes, sizes and materials, the above may not be your first choice.  Which is ok, because  there’s something for everyone in the Top Time line (and in the vintage watch market in general).  Click on the pictures below to make them larger.

To me, this is what loving watches is all about: the thrill of the chase.  I’m sure other watch-loving readers can relate, and have their own “grail” watch in mind right now.  Most importantly, if anyone knows the whereabouts of a watch like the one pictured above, please send me an email at: oneguysstyle@gmail.com.  To sweeten the pot, if anyone can find such a watch (and I end up purchasing it), than I’ll hook you up with a $25 gift certificate to eBay, a Ralph Lauren Purple Label tie from my personal collection, and my eternal gratitude.

Thanks for reading and please feel free to add comments below, email me at oneguysstyle@gmail.com, or follow me on Twitter, @oneguysstyle.   For my earlier comprehensive post on watches, click here.   For my recent post about NATO watch straps, click here.

Corporate Style – Part 5: Watches

Introduction

Men have a tenuous relationship with jewelery.  Almost without fail, more is definitely less.  However, I would highly recommend saving room for a watch.  And not just any watch, a watch that makes sure you’re dressed acceptably wherever you are, or perhaps one that puts you in a certain mood in light of its associations with car racing, scuba diving or sailing.  In the words of British GQ editor Dylan Jones, “You can be walking along a deserted Caribbean beach, wearing only a pair of shorts, but if you’re sporting an expensive watch, then you’re still well dressed.”  There is no question that this is a true statement – there are very few better ways to tell quite a bit about a person than to take a glance at their choice of wrist wear.  For example, a man with a Chopard Mille Miglia (see below) is likely to be interested in cars.  The guy with a Corum Admiral’s Cup is almost assuredly someone that sails (or wishes that they did).  And a man with a Patek Philippe is very likely a man with great taste that run towards the traditional and has very deep pockets.

 

But you shouldn’t buy a nice watch to send a particular message to other people; you should buy it for yourself.  For many men, it comes down to a fascination with the incredible engineering that goes into a fine Swiss watch.  For others it’s a love of the elegant design or, as I said before, the frame of mind that a particular watch puts you in.  I know men that have a particular watch they wear during the work week, and something sporty like a chunky TAG Heuer diving watch that they put on over the weekend.  That watch means its time for them to relax and enjoy their time off and shakes off the prim and proper elegance of their more business appropriate weekday wear.  For others, watches are a means of celebrating something, such as a wedding, a birthday, an anniversary or a promotion.  They can even be a means of remembering a loved one or cheering yourself up a bit.  Overall men, we’ve been given a grand canvas for our personality, our interests and our own projection of who it is we want to be, and so we shouldn’t waste that opportunity.

As someone that for quite some time did not wear a watch, I now realize that this was a mistake.  Even though we now are surrounded by gadgets that tell us the time (BlackBerry’s, iPods and the like), there is still something manly and prepared about having the time strapped to your wrist.  It suggests to others that you’re responsible and, well, a man.